Last weekend, the sun shone on the upcoming designers participating in London Fashion Week.
In the June slot, which hosts the London Fashion Week Mens shows, a selection of scaled-down, gender-neutral brands showcased their Spring 2023 collections.
In was reduced, without the usual frenzy associated with fashion week (it didn’t attract an international fashion ensemble), and that came with a clear benefit for anyone who decided to walk the runway.
With only seven shows on the lineup, a far cry from the February and September fashion weeks that have 90 or more physical activations, everyone has had a chance to stand out.
There was no requirement to do these shows for men (LFW went genderless during the pandemic), but they happened to be predominantly for boys – and the summer wardrobe was light, linen tailoring for summers in the city, and a hue. strong beach vest.
Here are the three names to watch out for:
Opening proceedings early Saturday afternoon Carlota Barrera, the Spanish designer who makes minimalist menswear with a feminine twist, performed under the bridge at a Notting Hill skate park.
For her first physical LFW runway, a Cuban-inspired flow of faded blues, greens and yellows made up a collection of laid-back tailoring with subtle twists.
Black tie tropes were reversed with fabrication, as dress shirts came in sloppy linens and deconstructed vests had pointy tags, block prints, and tied backs. For summer, the boys from Barrera are ready to go loose, light and grounded in their sleek, polished loafers.
As music played, trains hurried past and members of the public peered through the park’s metal fence, tranquil island-inspired outfits were placed in the urban center. And finally, they made sense in the city.
The south London-born knitwear brand, which started with knitwear in vibrant hues in 2018, has used its LFW debut to showcase an ever-increasing range.
The show was performed at Fabric nightclub, Farringdon, where the outfits came imbued with the party spirit you’d expect. Titled ‘Dripping in Colour’, the mixed-genre show was drenched in rainbow pop hues, splashed in tight knit outfits, mini dresses and knee-high socks.
Founder Alicia Robinson’s men’s summer staple was striped vests in sunset orange, bright blues and shots of pink. The best were worn asymmetrically and paired with track pants or cargo pants with voluminous logo belts.
Patchwork-cut jackets and jeans proved that the brand has more than knitwear in its sights. However, it was the cable knit, wool sweaters that came in saturated blues, oranges and pinks that proved that it is still the category that AGR does best.
To the beach! For her second physical show at the LFW, Dublin-born Robyn Lynch made a collection inspired by a Mallorcan tourist T-shirt acquired by her mother in 1983. The result was a laid-back seaside style.
Semi-sheer nylon short shorts were worn with comfortable, oversized hoodies. There were charming knit and button-down short-sleeved shirts and shorts, and technical edges on the zipped sports jackets with toggles and outerwear. Her one rule was clear: go monochromatic for summer, as the looks went from all red, through to grays, and rounded into electric yellow.
The models, who strutted powerfully on the runway at Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, wore Crocs — a sponsorship that sometimes distracted from the outfits. But Lynch brought humor (the shirts said ‘I Got Crabs In Brighton’) and surprises, like a zip-up poncho-meets-¼ sweater with restrictive forward-facing cutouts for hands.
And Lynch’s trick to lighten things up? Beaded necklaces, spelling out the brand name and punctuated with smiling faces. Their ironic plastic jewelry isn’t in stores yet – it’s best to make your own at home.