What men and boys might want to wear post-pandemic has been an overarching question this season for Milan.
If one were to ask Italy’s package of upscale and luxurious casual clothing brands – no less dignified, creative or high-end than their runway sisters – color would be an answer, and knitwear and linen too.
Typically catering to a more conservative fashion audience, these brands are seizing the moment as people return to travel and seek escapism in idyllic summer destinations.
Brands are updating their fashion to take advantage of younger generations and an international clientele, moves exemplified by Harmont & Blaine’s ongoing rebranding and Slowear and Brett Johnson’s retail push (the former brand will open a store in Manhattan’s SoHo in two weeks). ). They continued to delight with varieties of wardrobe construction, often injected with bolder color choices and luxurious, lightweight fabrics.
Case in point, Slowear’s spring palette was perky, sun-drenched, dyed in navy tones and grounded in earthy tones with perky linen blazers worn over peach shirts and yellow sunflower tees paired with gritty chino pants. , while Harmont & Blaine stepped on the gas, presenting a concept collection that revolved around the days of the week, renamed to reference a mood like wisdom, truth, freedom and more, each associated with a different color.
The vitamin injections provided by lightweight all-yellow shorts with striped shirts over logo Ts, or the citrusy appeal of an orange crewneck layered over striped shirts and matching chinos, mixed with bolder ensembles of red and Wardrobe bright blue, sometimes imbued with sporty inflections.
Overall, there were references to Italian summers through popsicle colors and airy fabrics in these wardrobe-building collections. At Slowear, the thick stripes of a beach hut have appeared on shirts, shorts and knitwear, the latter including eco-friendly Ice cotton options, one step among others the company has taken along its sustainable journey, which could earn B status. Corp in 2023.
Next summer, knit polo shirts and essentials should replace shirts that are too stiff to wear and become your everyday staple. For example, designer Luca Larenza had open-knit polos that were charmingly languid, or cardigans in widened horizontal stripes and loose knit children’s vests to match tailored cargo pants.
Knitwear was also strong on Brett Johnson, as he supported his elevated casual look—full of luxurious fabrics and treatments, like hydrating beeswax applied to clothing—with super-thin collars and tactile cable knits, some of which were hooded.
The American designer delighted his growing audience, with his packed presentation proving that business is in good shape with steps into the newly opened Dubai store – his first – ever hinted at.
Their clothes were aimed at Wall Street off-duty types, swapping gray and blue wool uniforms for stretchy Bermuda shorts made from the ultra-lightweight Solaro fabric and deconstructed linen, cotton and silk blazers or linen bomber jackets.
While working on a restrained color palette that relied on the gritty hues of the Dubai desert, he added touches of forest green, purple and canary yellow, as he believes even conservative fashion customers would not resist his appeal.
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