Four projects to watch – WWD

MILAN — The men’s fashion week calendar is welcoming a handful of newcomers who are betting on the global visibility offered by the showcase to present their spring collections and projects. From Lessico Familiare and Simon Cracker’s eco-friendly approach, to Sease’s charitable bent, and Joeone’s celebration of China’s heritage, these are the four firsts to keep an eye on this week.

Simon Cracker

From left Filippo Biraghi and Simone Botte, brand coordinator and creative director at Simon Cracker.
Courtesy of Simon Cracker

Simon Cracker, the brand founded and run by Simone Botte, is no newcomer.

Botte established it in 2010 with a radical approach that has been both pleasure and pain as he took advantage of upcycling when that word had yet to be invented and seemed a bit sidelined by the industry despite amassing loyal customers for his unique brand. creations.

Moving further in his sustainable commitment, he commits to using only recycled materials, even sewing threads, but he has become aware of the importance of scale and has taken the right steps to build a framework for the brand.

“I used to have loyal customers, but now the audience is growing.…I’m relying on a very sharp and precise vocabulary that can guide all of our decisions, especially now that we’re taking a few steps forward,” Botte said.

After bringing in Filippo Biraghi as brand coordinator, the designer is ready to embrace industrial-scale manufacturing as long as companies can align with their eco-friendly requests and make the brand “mainstream” without giving up on their founding dreams and values ​​of brand.

“Nobody is really happy with the way things are managed. [in fashion]but whenever someone tries to offer a different perspective, the industry fears change,” added Biraghi.

Signaling his interest in taking steps towards brand growth and commercial expansion, Simon Cracker is holding his first show on Sunday.

The brand’s overarching theme, explained Botte and Biraghi, is “punk kindness,” which for the genderless spring collection is telegraphed by dual inspiration – part “Little House on the Prairie” and part “Reality Bites,” the 1994 film. by Ben Stiller starring Wynona Rider.

Moving away from gender stereotypes, the collection will be paraded by men and women, all chosen from among friends of the brands wearing petticoats and flowing flats, evoking the “comforting scent of clean clothes drying”, as Botte put it; bespoke suits remastered from parts abandoned in dry cleaners; knits made from dead yarn and outerwear made from parachute fabrics.

“Our participation in fashion week proves our ambition to continue doing what we do, but on an industrial scale, finding manufacturers that help us increase our scope,” said Botte. — MARTINO CAREER

Joeone

Designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi with a model wearing his creations for Joeone.

Designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi with a model wearing his creations for Joeone.
Courtesy of Joeone

When emerging Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi was named creative director at Joeone, he immediately knew that the most difficult task would be keeping up with the Chinese company’s prowess in making pants, while expanding its offering and turning it into a complete company. -developed fashion brand.

A company that has built a sizable business in its home market, priding itself on selling a pair of pants every seven seconds, Joeone debuted on the runways outside of China in 2021 during Paris Fashion Week. But he is walking to Milan and will perform on the catwalk on Monday in the courtyard of Castello Sforzesco.

“Milano is such a strong city for fashion, especially for menswear, with historical know-how and a typical way of making tailoring,” said Nouchi. “It also fit perfectly into the atmosphere we wanted to evoke for the show for this collection. It’s a city that also has a strong connection to China, and I like to leverage that connection,” she said.

Nouchi’s demanding approach to tailoring landed him the job. Aware of the differences between Chinese and Western tailoring, Nouchi has been trying to find a balance.

“I’ve always loved to combine these two approaches… I love bringing the sensuality of oversized shapes to a more casual and wearable wardrobe”, he explains.

The spring collection nods to China’s Song Dynasty era and draws inspiration from Wang Ximeng’s painting “A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains” commissioned by Emperor Song Huizong, who was known for his flamboyant taste. “I wanted to bring that part of Chinese history into the now,” explained Nouchi.

A men's spring 2023 look by Joeone.

A men’s spring 2023 look by Joeone.
Courtesy of Joeone

The designer reinterpreted the artwork’s rolling hills and vast lakes and rivers accented by bright blue brushstrokes for slightly evasive patterned silk pants with a liquid look, paired with sheer white shirts. There’s activewear bent to some of the styles, which Nouchi counterbalanced with his sharp tailored builds, the core of Joeone’s offering, achieving a fluid look.

“It’s a reflection on what men like to wear today, in terms of functionality, comfort and elegance”, he said, remembering how the pants, their fit, waist and details were always the starting point of the look.

The morning show, scheduled for 9:30 am CET, will be broadcast live on Weibo and WeChat to reach domestic audiences, still unable to travel due to the pandemic. For viewers in real and virtual life, Nouchi has orchestrated a showcase that aims to telegraph “desirability and fantasy”. — MC

Sea

Franco Loro Piana

Franco Loro Piana
Courtesy of Sease

An activist impulse will set Sease’s first showcase as part of Milan Fashion Week. The performance lifestyle brand founded by brothers Franco and Giacomo Loro Piana will not only highlight its new offering, but will leverage the event’s visibility to raise awareness of the work of Sea Shepherd, a non-profit organization that protects the world’s oceans. illegal exploitation and environmental destruction.

Sharing a common ecological approach, the brand partnered with the organization, providing new uniforms for its fleet and then designing a dedicated capsule collection. Launching on Monday, the project is intended to encourage people to join the cause, as the proceeds from sales will be fully donated to Sea Shepherd. With prices between 180 euros and 890 euros, the range will be sold in Sease stores and e-commerce, in addition to being available exclusively at Modes, LuisaViaRoma and The Webster.

Designed with 3D technology to reduce fabric waste and optimize product development, the pieces were made from recycled plastic waste from the ocean thanks to a collaboration with the Seaqual program, which transforms marine litter into new raw material, and Maiocchi , which used Seaqual yarn to produce the fabric.

Style-wise, the collection will feature t-shirts, vests, bomber jackets, hoodies and a backpack, all featuring both parties’ logos as well as key values ​​or inspirational quotes from the organization. While a map marking all maritime missions has been printed on the lining of the garments, a QR code on each garment will allow consumers to inform themselves, donate or participate in the community.

Sea Shepherd x Sea Shepherd

Sea Shepherd x Sea Shepherd
Courtesy of Sease

“It’s a more contemporary capsule compared to the Sease signature product, and it has a different fit as well,” said Franco Loro Piana, noting that the project will allow the brand to connect with a new audience.

Meanwhile, he helped Loro Piana explore new categories, such as t-shirts, which will be introduced to Sease’s mainline this season. Other highlights will be the linen field jacket — one of the brand’s strengths — with waterproof treatment, joked the businessman.

Both Sea Shepherd’s capsule collection and Sease’s main line will be displayed in the brand’s new store on Via Montenapoleone, where the brand has recently moved from its previous location in the artsy district of Brera.

Launched to offer versatile and functional kits aimed at the mountain or the sea, Sease was founded in 2018, when “after selling the family business I wanted to [get out there] with a brand that could narrate our Italian heritage and know-how within a more contemporary context”, recalled Loro Piana, who comes from the homonymous textile family. — SANDRA SALIBIAN

Familiar Lessico

From left to right: Riccardo Scaburri, Alice Curti and Alberto Petillo.

From left to right: Riccardo Scaburri, Alice Curti and Alberto Petillo.
Courtesy of Lessico Familiare

“We’re mostly big, sometimes a little costumed and completely far from sexy,” said Riccardo Scaburri, one-third of the creative force behind Lessico Familiare, summarizing the indie brand’s aesthetic.

One of the few brands to bet on the mixed format this season, Lessico Familiare will mark its debut on the official Milan Fashion Week calendar with a rather unusual lineup, articulated with a bridal theme.

However, the approach is completely in sync with the quirky nature of the brand, which does not follow any seasons but embraces experimental designs.

Founded during the pandemic and deeply rooted in sustainability, Lessico Familiare is the brainchild of Scaburri, Alberto Petillo and Alice Curti, who met while attending the NABA School of Fashion, Art and Design.

After treading different paths — Scaburri tells previous experiences as a designer at Max Mara and GCDS; Petillo is a tailor and tattoo artist, while Curti worked at Miaoran before returning to NABA as a teacher – in 2020 they decided to launch Lessico Familiare, looking at what their home environment could offer. Thus, curtains, rugs, discarded clothes were reused to transform a “family lexicon” (as the brand name translates in English) into new pieces.

“The aesthetic is both nostalgic and deliberately relaxed. Nostalgic but healthy: Our family and domestic inspirations are clear, but we’re not stuck in the past. Froufrou but not empty… our main inspiration is not even visual but comes from Natalia Ginzburg’s [1963 book] ‘Lessico Famigliare,’” Scaburri said. The brand’s aim “is to keep family memories alive with clothes,” just as the Italian author did with words, he added.

Developed in collaboration with artist GianMarco Porru, the upcoming collection will see a bridal trousseau transformed into a groom’s outfit. All the fabrics used came from Porru’s own family’s wedding trousseau, including tablecloths, curtains and bedspreads, which were repurposed and enriched with “laces and bows and bows” or rendered in “two-dimensional shapes where the key element is texture.” the fabric”, joked Scaburri.

The collection will be presented in person on June 20 with “no real models, no runway, no lines. Just brides leaving a bar and going to get married,” she added.

A look from the upcoming Lessico Familiare collection.

A look from the upcoming Lessico Familiare collection.
Courtesy of Lessico Familiare

For the founders, walking during Milan Fashion Week represents both a chance to share the stage with established players and to showcase the versatility of their brand. “We are a project, not a brand. The first time we showed our pieces was at the Spazio Martín gallery during an artistic performance. Now it’s during fashion week, so who knows?” said Scaburri.

With prices ranging between 70 euros and 180 euros, Lessico Familiare is mainly available on its e-commerce, also due to its artisanal and homemade production. — SS

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